Northern California Trip: Day 6 - Lake Tahoe

This was one of those days when plans become extinct...

I was planning to hike Mount Tallac Trail with a my former colleague, but that plan did not work on so many levels. The day before he fell ill, but my intention was still to go hiking. I arrived at the trailhead only to find this sign.

A couple of other people were also debating whether to hike the trail or not. I decided to respect the rules and hike another trail.

I started with Eagle Lake Trail, a shorter trail of about 2.5 miles round trip with some elevation gain. It turned out to be very nice and not overly crowded. The lake was a great reward at the end, although it was in low 60s, so it felt even cooler than that by the water.

I knew I wanted to hike more, so I used AllTrails to find another local trail to hike. D.L. Bliss State Park to Emerald Bay State Park via Rubicon Trail came up as a suggestion, and I was on my way to the trailhead.

The trail started in the woods and then transitioned to a paved road where the campgrounds were scattered throughout the forest. Very quickly the paved roads ended, and I was back in the woods on a dirt trail on the side of another hill. The weather was perfect, the air relatively clear.

The trail continued right by the lake. What an incredible hike! I was so glad that things worked out this way as I was now able to get close to the lake. It is so deeply blue, and with the wind that day the waves were gently crashing on the shore (video to follow).

I remember visiting Lake Tahoe in 2012 when I just graduated dental hygiene school. I took the boards and came here waiting for the results. I stayed at Harvey's, the hotel I also booked this time. I remember Lake Tahoe area being rather cold in the middle of May. I liked how it looked but really didn't appreciate the views as much as I did this time. Someone told me, "How could you not like Lake Tahoe?" Now I realized it was impossible. The beauty surrounding me consumed me. There was no fear anymore, no anxiety or worries. Just peace...

There was no concrete destination of this trail, so I turned around as soon as I felt like I wanted to. I was getting tired of hiking, even in this pristine beauty. I guess everything is good in moderation. I was ready to check in my hotel, have lunch and relax.

I finished the trail around 1.30 PM and drove to Harvey's Lake Tahoe. I parked and dragged my scattered belongings to the hotel room. Unfortunately, the first room I got smelled like smoke. I called the front desk, and the kind lady offered me an upgrade in a newly renovated suite. I was lucky, so lucky, because the room was incredible.

I grabbed lunch at California Burger, a delicious black bean burger with some french fries. This was the first time I actually went out on this trip. It's interesting how people react to someone dining alone, they get nervous and somewhat cautious. I remember the days when I myself felt uncomfortable eating by myself and I'm happy to report that I'm glad those days are over.

I spent the rest of the evening lounging in a comfy bed watching a movie. The trip was coming to an end, and tomorrow would be another drive day.

I was glad I could hike all those trails, however smoky they were. Quite a bit sad seeing all this smoke knowing that so many animals died in the fires, people lost their homes and realizing that this is not the end. The fire season continues, and more forests are going to be burned. The nature will recover, and animals will repopulate those areas, but it would take time and patience. In the meantime, I was grateful for the trip and my planning abilities to enjoy lows and highs, adjust and make the best of it.

Northern California Trip: Day 5 - Lassen Peak and Bumpass Hell Trail

Energized by the morning coffee and a good night of sleep, I checked out of my room before 6 AM and was on my way to Lassen. I was eager to hike today, and Lassen Peak was the first destination. 

At almost 10,500 ft above the sea level, Lassen Peak Trail was the most heavily trafficked trail in the park. Around 5 miles round trip and 2,000 ft elevation gain, the trail offered stunning views and great exercise. Unfortunately, the smoke still prevented the views pictured everywhere on social media and Alltrails website. I still had to do it.

The elevation gain was pretty significant, but the toughest part was that the trail started around 8,000 ft. The air felt thin, and even after several days of hiking I was out of breath initially. The views were great from the very start, even with smoke all over.

The sky cleared up here and there, but for the most part I could hardly see the blue sky. One benefit of that was the sun was not as hot, and with the trail being completely exposed, it really made the uphill better. I took my time today. I wanted to enjoy the feeling of exhaustion, the sense of my hiking boots solidly grasping the sand and rocks it their sole thread. Strange, but somehow peaceful to completely focus on the physical feeling of the present moment instead of thinking about something that happened in the past or might happen in the future.

Closer to the top, it was starting to get windy and cold. I put my sweater on as I was staring at the white rock behind me. I realized that it was snow! Snow at the end of summer. 

There was a bit more distance left to cover to really reach the top. It involved some rock scrambling, but after a little while there I was on top of Lassen Peak.

The rock was unusual, as if it came from another planet. I guess I don't remember ever being in a volcanic park, but rocks like these were everywhere.

Another incredible creature I found was unique to its environment... An aspiring mode, Mr. Chipmunk! 

I started my descent as the air thickened with smoke. On the way down, I wore the N-95 to finally reduce the smell of smoke. I was surprised how often on this trip I had to wear the mask. It helped quite a bit, and going downhill it was relatively easy to breathe through it.

I finished the hike in just under 3 hours and moved on to the next one, just a quarter a mile from the parking lot.

Bumpass Hell Trail was rated as "Easy" on AllTrails, but I really can't say it was easy. I would rate it at least "Moderate". Surprisingly, the air was almost clear. No idea how a quarter a mile could make such a difference, but this was an amazing hike - beautiful landscape, sulphur lakes, diverse plants and trees and a lake at the end of the trail.

But let's start with the sulphur lakes aka hydrothermal areas where sulfur escapes from the ground boiling through the acidic water. This is why I came to Lassen, to see the boiling mudpots and possibly geysers. The smell of rotten eggs and the view of boiling water were incredible. 

The trail was so diverse in views that after another half a mile I was in the middle of the forest.

Again, I was hiking on the side of the hill with magnificent views. The final destination turned out to be a lake. I could have stayed here for a long time, but it was time to go back as I had a 3 hour drive to Sacramento.

The hike uphill was strenuous, but I paced myself and really enjoyed the exercise.

I got to my car, had some cashews and started the drive south. Lassen was a great place to visit, and I would love to come back when there is no fire or smoke danger. I want to see the views...

Driving on highways to Sacramento was non-eventful and soon enough I was at my AirBnb (after a brief stop at Trader Joe's to grab some berries and a salad). This room came with an adjacent bathroom, but unfortunately, the A/C was not working properly. I went back and forth with the host who said it was due to PG&E turning off A/C in rolling power outages. I wondered how they did that without an actual power outage... But I was there for only one night, so I was okay dealing with this. At least no insects!

Northern California Trip: Day 4 - Lassen Volcanic National Park - Brokeoff Mountain Trail

I had several hikes planned in Lassen Volcanic National Park, a place I have wanted to visit for a while now and could finally check off my list. The first hike of the day was Brokeoff Mountain Trail located just outside the park. Once again, I put that America The Beautiful park pass to good use!

The first thing I noticed at the trailhead was this note...

I hesitated... There were a few cars in the parking lot, but nobody was starting the trail with me. I hesitated more, but decided to start the hike. Those who say that fear subsides the more you hike don't know what they are talking about. It does not. Maybe it does when you actually encounter bears regularly, but I haven't had this opportunity. The last time I saw a bear was over 2 years ago when I hiked Alta Peak Trail in the summer. of 2018. I can't say I was eager to relive the experience.

I started the hike. It was very quiet in the woods, peaceful and cool, but very smoky. The sun was just a  circle with rays absorbed by a dense haze created by fires.

At about 0.7 miles, I decided that it was reasonable to turn around. I wish I did not see that note... There was only one thought in my head, "Bear, bear, bear". I slowly started to go back, but after about 5 minutes I heard the voices. It was two female hikers. I knew I had to follow them back up or I would feel defeated by the trail (or my fear).

The women were fast, and the trail continued uphill. I did not want to fall behind, and followed them closely. I thought to myself, "Let's say there is a bear. So what? Do you think that these ladies are going to help you? Of course, not." But it is the comfort of another human that kept my legs going further uphill. My air horn, maybe feeling a bit offended that I did not think of it as protective gear, quietly sat in the side pocket of my backpack.

The hike was pretty difficult, but these ladies were ridiculously fit. We gained 2,710 ft rather quickly. The views were quite a bit obstructed by all the smoke.

I finally reached the top and after having lunch headed back down, with the ladies. The total hike took me 3 hours and 18 minutes, 8.2 miles with Brokeoff Mountain Peak at 9,233 ft. Talk about motivation!

I was tired, but excited to have completed this trail. I drove into the park, but many of the parking lots were completely full. Labor day weekend!

I decided to follow my plan and hike Cinder Cone Nature Trail. I did not realize that the trailhead was over 6 miles off the main road on gravel pathway. I started the drive, but knew that my 14 year-old Civic with original suspension was not up to this challenge, and in the 95 degree heat, neither was I. It was time to drive back. On the way back, I found a nice winery, Moseley Family Cellars, near Redding where I did wine tasting and grabbed a bottle of Cabernet to take home.

My evening turned out to be relaxing in a comfy bed watching a movie. I didn't feel I was as productive as I had planned, but I guess I made the most of the day I could. Tomorrow would be another day in Lassen, and I intended to compensate for the lost hikes.

Northern California Trip: Day 3 - Loch Leven Trail and Cascade Canal Access Trail

Another somewhat restful (restless?) night in the cabin... I was ready to move on to another dwelling. My next night would be spent in a more urban AirBnb in Redding, but until check-in I had miles to hike. 

The first trail of the day was a bit out of the way from Redding. In fact, I was driving in the same direction as yesterday, just deeper into the woods. I reached the trail head of Lock Leven Trail and became really excited. The air was relatively clear!

Early in the morning there were still very few people. A couple passed me, and I decided to closely follow them (in case there is a bear nearby). The trail crossed the train tracks continuing uphill.

It was really nice to hike in the pine forest again, in the wilderness preserved still well enough to feel completely alone. As highway traffic faded, I found myself listening to silence, something that you can rarely hear in even suburbia. 

With that said, my best friend, the air horn, was proudly peeking from the side pocket in case a human or an animal needed to be scared. You know, safety first...

The trail featured 3 separate lakes. The first one was pretty spectacular.

The second one was only 15 minutes away...

And so was the third one... Who knows, I might have mixed up pictures of which one is which, but the hike overall was filled with lakes and water!

There were several people camping right by the lakes. Indeed, it looked like a peaceful place to sleep. I, on the other hand, was one of those who preferred to day hike such a trail and sleep in a comfy bed with a high pressure shower and flush toilet. To each their own, I guess...

As I was heading back, more and more people were coming up with camping gear for Labor Day weekend. I bet it got crowded in the area by the end of the day, another reason to stay further away from the crowds.

After a great hike, I had a quick lunch from my cooler (it was not that cool anymore, but what are you going to do...) and decided to go on the second hike. It was not the original hike that I planned, but those that I did plan were right in the area where the new fire just started. The air quality in that area was getting worse, so I decided to pick something that is healthier for my lungs.

Cascade Canal Access Trail was a local trail of Forest Knolls, relatively easy - great for the middle of the day heat. Completely shaded, this trail is very relaxing and goes along small canal with minimal views, but also minimal crowding.

After a nice walk (I can't possibly call it a hike - almost completely flat and easy), I changed into a fresh set of clothes and headed to Redding where I would spend the next 2 nights. 

The drive was rather pleasant. As I approached Redding, I was shocked by the poor air quality. Several large California fires were nearby, and the smoke was filling the air. I haven't seen the sun being so obstructed before. The picture below was taken around 5 PM.

I checked in my AirBnb, which by far exceeded my expectations. I was in for a good night of sleep, finally!

Northern California Trip: Day 2 - Steven's Trail and Windy Point Trail

After a reasonably restful night, I was up early to get my day started with Steven's Trail. I don't know how many Steven's trails I've hiked so far, but it is starting to get confusing. This blog helps me remember and better navigate my adventures. I arrived at the trailhead nice and early with only 2 other cars parked in the small parking lot. It was smoky that day, so maybe this deterred others from hiking. Oh wait, maybe it was because it was only Friday.

The first solo hike in the trip is always somewhat strange. A bit anxious, but determined to hike, I headed down on the first hike of the day. And down it was. The trail descended rapidly, and soon enough I could see smoke covered views from the side of the hill.

The river was peacefully flowing far down the hill on which I was walking. As you see, the pictures have a yellowish/orange hue to them. This is because of the smoke. Somehow the camera on my phone captured the view that way.

The way down was easy, as always. But I knew that the return trip was coming up. In the meantime, I enjoyed the nice head net - protection from insects - while debating whether it was time to wear an N-95.

Some leaves were starting to change. These beautiful trees were first in the forest of mostly pine.

As I reached the river, the temperature was getting up there - it was supposed to be the hottest weekend in California this year.

I didn't stay too long by the river, just long enough to finish my snack, and headed back uphill. It was pretty brutal with the air quality the way it was and the heat. Also, I decided to try and wear the N-95 mask, and realized that breathing through this thing is rather difficult, especially going uphill. As I was getting close to the end of the trail, overheating, I made an executive decision to take it off and finally was able to finish the hike. I was soaked and tired. And that was just day one of the trip. I wondered if I was just so out of shape or it was the heat.

I had a few hikes to choose from as my second hike of the day and opted for an easy one. Windy Point Trail on paper seemed to be very easy at about 2 miles round trip, but 740 ft elevation gain. I've gained that amount of elevation in a mile before, so I thought it would be a good way to finish the hiking day. Wrong! The trail is not easy at all when it is 95 degrees and smoky. Again, the way down was pretty easy, but it was really hot, so I decided to turn around just before the official finish of the trail and head back up. It was a good decision, because for whatever reason (oh wait, I know, it was 95F!) my cardio was not up to following my intentions. 

The views from the trail were very similar to Steven's trail, and in different circumstances I would rate this hike as outstanding, but it is too exposed to the sun to do it in the middle of the afternoon on a hot day.

Exhausted, I was ready for lunch and got a delicious pizza at a local Italian place, Il Pizzaiolo Wood-fired Pizza, that was probably one of the better pizza's I tried in California (a spoiled New Yorker with a travel history to Italy here...).

I drove back to my AirBnb and truly enjoyed the rest of the day lounging on a hammock. Did I mention I should get one myself? Maybe I will...