Sunday, July 26, 2020

Flagstaff - Sedona, Arizona and Utah Road Trip: Day 2 - Cathedral Rock, Devil's Bridge and Bell Rock Trails

After seeing how hot it could get around here, I woke up nice and early to start hiking. After a quick breakfast of a hard boiled egg with an avocado toast, we headed to the first trailhead - Cathedral Rock Trail. Even this early in the morning, the air was heating up quickly. The trail was short, only 1.4 miles round trip, but rather steep, 745 ft elevation gain.

Driving past Sedona, I knew I was going to see beautiful scenery today. Cathedral Rock trail did not disappoint. After hiking and rock scrambling, the views were incredible.

One of the first views of the rock...


After a bit of hiking...

Right before the end of the trail...

End of the trail (there was more...)

This is that "more" - a steep climb with some rock scrambling again.



Final view of the Cathedral rock
The second hike of the day was Devil's Bridge Trail. Only 4.5 miles round trip, the hike was supposed to be relaxing with some good view on the top. The first mile and a half, the trail was a sandy path filled with off-road vehicles, Jeeps and trucks. I can't say this was very relaxing. Closer to the end of the trail, the pathway narrowed to allow only pedestrians to hike to Devil's bridge. The views even before reaching the destination were incredible.





I was about to turn around thinking that there was no bridge after all, but saw a few people continue hiking further. I decided to do the same and finally reached the bridge. People lined up to have their picture taken were hardly social distancing, so after taking a quick picture of the bridge, I went back down.


It was getting really hot, and I still had one hike planned. I debated whether I should do it or skip, but decided that I would at least give it a shot. Bell Trail was not something I have not done before. At 7 miles round trip with 600 ft elevation gain, it seemed rather easy when I sat on my couch planning the trip. On a hot day after having already hiked 6 miles, the hike turned out to be pretty difficult. I didn't realize that the end of the trail was "the crack" filled with water where people could swim. That attracted a WHOLE bunch of people with loud music, screaming children... There were some good views closer to the end, but the number of people made me quickly turn around.


LOTS of people at the end of the trail...
One of the challenges I encountered was running out of water half-way during hiking this trail. And I knew I needed water to get back, so I asked one of the groups if they had an extra bottle. Luckily, one man offered me a fresh and cool bottle from his backpack. Forever grateful! This was a rookie error not to bring enough water on a very hot day, and I will never be so stupid again.

I finally go to the car and headed back to the cottage for a nice shower. This is why I don't camp. After a long day like this, I cannot imagine not being able to wash off.

Relieved after a nice shower, dinner and some wine tasting was well deserved. I can tell you that the meal at Merkin Vineyards Tasting Room and Osteria was one of the best one I've had. Bruchetta was top notch, and wine was worth going back to Arizona from California for!



Saturday, July 25, 2020

Flagstaff - Sedona, Arizona and Utah Road Trip: Day 3 - Humphrey's Peak

I was curious how I would feed after yesterday's hikes and surprisingly I was ready for Humphrey's Peak. At 10.5 miles and 3,400 ft elevation gain, it would be the first one in a while of such intensity. The reviews promised amazing views, so I was up for the challenge.

Knowing that it was in Flagstaff, I was encouraged by lower temperatures as the hike started around 9,000 ft elevation. Indeed, when I arrived at the trailhead, it was nice and crisp. I was really glad it was not going to be another day like yesterday hiking in a 90 degree weather.

The hike started out with some incredible views of the field and wildflowers. The landscape at this elevation was much greener indicating that rain was not a novelty here even in the summer.





The trail slowly progressed into the forest, and very soon I was surrounded by beautiful pine trees. Somehow it reminded me of Yosemite...




The first few miles were a bit challenging due to elevation. The air was thin, and while the elevation gain initially was not too bad, I could feel the difference from hiking in the lower elevation. The temperatures were nice and low, so the hike felt very doable.

After the first few miles the trail started to gain elevation pretty quickly. It became rocky, and I felt I needed more breaks. Overcast sky was wonderful. Since mobile reception was available pretty much throughout the whole hike, I was glad to catch up on my podcasts. I am at least 3 weeks behind now!

As the trail gained elevation, the views opened up.


Soon the trees disappeared, and I knew I was officially above the tree line. I slowed down quite a bit. Every once in a while I had to stop quieting my heard down with multiple breaks. The air was thin up here.

I reached the first fork in the road where the trail split into two going in opposite direction. I turned left to go to Humphrey's peak. Later I found out that I was actually hiking a dormant volcano! That explained dark-colored rock. It became really windy as now I could see on both sides of the mountain.



The further up I went, the cloudier and foggier the sky became. Soon visibility was minimal to the ground. I've hiked in similar conditions several times. It's a bit disappointing knowing that when you get to the top, there will be no view, but I have already seen so much on the way to the top, I just wanted to get there.


And finally the last stretch - to top of the mountain was within visible distance!


Done at 12,633 ft elevation! Felt great to finally touch the sign. Another mountain behind my belt.

I did not spend too much time on the top. The storm approached, and the last thing I wanted to do is to be at the top of the mountain when the lightning strikes.

The way back was much easier, but scrambling down on the rocks in some sections required some thinking and patience. The latter, let's say, is not my biggest strength.

Somehow this hike generated a lot of peace. This feeling emphasized when at about 2 miles before the finish line it started to rain. At first drizzle and then full-on rain. Other hikers ahead of me started to put on their rain gear, but the rain drops felt amazing on my skin. The forest quieted down or so I though. I could only hear my footsteps and distant voices from other hikers. Peace... That's why I think I am so eager to escape the civilization at times in search for quiet and peaceful environment. My friend sent me a quote, "Some people want a big house, a fast car, and lots of money. Some people want a tiny cabin in the woods away from those kinds of people." I can't say I read something that resonated with me more.

I finally reached the bottom of the mountain, and it was time for lunch. Flagstaff was one of the places that I wanted to visit. I was a bit disappointed. I love small towns, but it felt a bit touristy, even without many tourists. Parking was paid on most streets, but was plentiful. We went to Annex Cocktail Lounge.

Read Christy W.'s review of Annex Cocktail Lounge on Yelp

It was time to go back to the cottage and relax. The rest of the night we spent lounging on the porch drinking kombucha. I sat on a small bench right in the middle of the garden overlooking the hill as my friend went inside. It was quiet and peaceful. I watched dozens of birds looking for food, deer chasing each other in the distance, a lizard hunting for his next meal... This is something I don't get to do often, or rather I don't get to the peaceful state when I can actually be present and observe the surroundings.

8 PM was a perfect time to end this day with a good night's of sleep.

Friday, July 24, 2020

Flagstaff - Sedona, Arizona and Utah Road Trip: Day 1 - Driving and Montezuma Castle

"I have never been to Flagstaff or Sedona... Why wait?", I said to myself a few months ago when two of my trips got cancelled due to COVID-19 pandemic. A road trip was on my agenda since I moved to California four years ago. It was time to do something like this again.

I rented a small cottage in Lake Montezuma, AZ for three nights. Located about half an hour south from Sedona, the area promised to be quiet and mostly rural. My original plan was to travel by myself, but at the last minute my friend decided to join me. I was really glad to share this experience with someone!

We left around 7 am and drove 6.5 hours to the first destination - Montezuma Castle. Right by the AirBnb, I could not stop but visit this National monument. Our ancestors built a real castle into a mountain, if this is not amazing, what is? Apparently, the castle and other "dwellings" were built between approximately 1100 and 1425 AD. Visitors could access the site by climbing a set of ladders up until 1951 when it was closed. Now you can only see it from the distance, which I did not mind one bit.


There is a small creek right there. Who knew water was available in this climate!
After spending a little time at the National monument, we headed to check in to the AirBnb. The rest of the day was spent drinking Kombucha and relaxing on the porch. It started to rain (I guess this is where the water comes from!), and I was able to capture a few incredible pictures with the sun peaking through the clouds. Note: no filters, no Photoshop editing - just real pictures.




Sunday, July 5, 2020

3-Day Trip in Idyllwild, CA: Day 3 - Black Mountain Trail

My original plan for today was an easy 5-mile hike - Ernie Maxwell Scenic Trail, but knowing from the reviews that the parking lot at the trailhead was nonexistent and the crowds rather serious, I decided to give Black Mountain Trail a chance.

I checked out from the AirBnb and drove about 10 minutes to the small parking lot right off the main road. I anticipated it to be filled with people, but when I arrived, there was only one car there. I wondered why...

I am not always comfortable hiking alone, especially in forests with bears and mountain lions. At the same time, I made a conscious decision to not let fear stop me from doing what I want or waiting for someone to accompany me. I was hiking this trail.

From Alltrails app, I knew that it was going to be a butt-kicker. A bit over 8 miles with 2,800 ft elevation gain, this trail did not intimidate me too much since I have already adjusted to the elevation in Idyllwild. It started out with immediate elevation gain, and it was getting hot. Bugs... So many little annoying bugs that I have previously encountered on another trail. My head net was a must there.


I encountered the couple whose car was the first in the parking lot coming down. I have no idea when they started or whether they just decided to turn around, but both were sweaty and in awe of my head net. Heck yes! I am an experienced hiker!

I continued hiking in the middle of the woods. This trail is pretty overgrown in spots, so I was glad to be wearing my usual long hiking pants. It was so quiet, rather eerie actually. I listened to my podcasts that I downloaded before leaving.

The views were not as accessible as on other trails I hiked in Idyllwild, but you could peak through the tall trees at high points.


About half way, I was really getting tired, and the trail became more and more overgrown. I struggled to continue and decided to turn around. I hiked back a few hundred feet, looked at my Alltrails tracking and realized that I would regret not having completed this trail. I turned around yet again to continue.

The trail persisted uphill. It was me and bugs surrounded by pine trees. I approached the last part of the trail where I would turn right instead of following the map, a steep shortcut. I lost the trail a few times, but the app was leading me to the right direction. Finally, I saw the fire watch tower. What a beautiful sight!


There were two park rangers (volunteers) on the top, so because of social distancing guidelines I was not allowed to go up there, but the views were incredible even from where I was.


I chatted with the volunteer for a few minutes, took my usual 15 minute break and headed down. I really wanted to take a shower at that point, so I descended averaging 20 minutes per mile. My knees let me know that it was not a good idea, but they forgave me in the end.

I finished the hike in 3 hours and 43 minutes with moving time of 3 hours and 21 minute. The total distance was 7.7 miles with 2,694 ft elevation gain. Now that's one hell of exercise!

Saturday, July 4, 2020

3-Day Trip in Idyllwild, CA: Day 2 - Suicide Rock via Deer Springs Trail

I woke up early in the morning to get a head start on hiking Suicide Rock via Deer Springs Trail. My rental apartment was within walking distance from the trail head, so I was not worried about parking. Although the day before I noticed how crowded the parking lot on the side of the road was. There are few parking spots available, and by 8-9 AM it really gets crowded.

I started around 7 AM, and it was already getting warm. The trail is relatively open and well-maintained, meaning I was perfectly fine in capri instead of my usual long pants. With that said, I was really glad to be carrying a head net. As it got warmer and warmer, the little annoying bugs started swarming around me. Having had this experience in my prior hikes, I was fully ready!


Oh yeah, nobody was getting through this set up! Other hikers, jealously staring at my protective mechanism, were passing by towards the misery of being attacked by the little creatures.

The Suicide Rock was near in sight, and I was relieved to see only a few people there. I wanted my peace and quiet.





The temperature on the top was very comfortable, so I enjoyed a decent half hour (unusual for me) sitting on a tall rock overlooking this view.


As I heard a few loud people approaching, I decided that it was my time to start the decent. I said goodbye to the rocks and trees and quails and headed back down.

By 11 AM, I was done with the hike, relaxing at the apartment. I spent another hour chilling on the porch reading a book and then headed to town to grab some ice cream and a glass of wine. I ended up chatting with a few people and got to the apartment only for dinner. What a great summer day!


Friday, July 3, 2020

3-Day Trip in Idyllwild, CA: Day 1 - Tahquitz Peak via Devils Slide Trail

After 5 months of no travel, I was really excited to go to Idyllwild. Only an hour and a half from my place, Idyllwild is a small town in the San Jacinto mountains. I have seen several trails that I wanted to explore there, but was never determined enough to drive the distance when I have similar options nearby (or so I thought...). It exceeded my expectations.

On a July 4th weekend, I anticipated crowds and noise, but was met with smaller crowds and peace. My rental apartment was wonderfully secluded and private, only a mile and a half away from the town, and close to hiking trails. I even had a mini porch where one day I sat on a rocking chair watching the birds. Some would say it is a boring activity, but to me it allows to be fully present.

On the first day, I left home and drove straight to the trailhead to hike Tahquitz Peak via Devils Slide Trail. I knew beforehand that I needed two things: a permit to hike and my National park pass (aka America the Beautiful). I proactively filled out the form and faxed it over to the state park office, and within a week received my permit. You can also pick up a permit at one of the two ranger stations, fill them out, drop one copy in the permit box and take one on a hike with you. While my permit was not checked, there are signs that a citation might be given if one hikes without a permit. The permit can be picked up 24/7 at the ranger's station.

I arrived at the trailhead at 7.20 AM and the parking lot was already 70% full. This is apparently the most popular trailhead in Idyllwild. The hike is pretty tough, but the scenery is worth it.



Some wildflowers were still blooming near the streams





The weather was mild enough to not wear a hat on the way up, and my mask was safely stored in my pocket when there were no people around. The last mile or so is pretty steep, but the reward is totally worth it!

This is a view from the fire tower, which was closed at the moment


After spending 15-20 minutes at the top and making a short video to give some better insight on what the views were like, I headed back down.



Many more people were just on their way up around 11 AM. Bad decision - the heat was building, and the elevation gain was unforgiving.

I drove to the local coffee shop The Town Baker to pick up some coffee and food, and was not really impressed. The guy at the checkout was very friendly and kind. My cappuccino, on the other hand, just was subpar. I also ordered a BLT on a sourdough bread and was not impressed with it either. It tasted like several separate ingredients vs. a sandwich. It was dry and lacked flavor. Next time, I would try another coffee shop right next to it.

After checking in my Airbnb, I decided to go on another hike right across from my rental place. While I did not do the full Idyllwild Park Trail route, I was hot and tired and had to use the bug net. After an hour hiking, it was time to relax.

I returned to my apartment, took a shower and ordered a takeout of Philly roll from Idy Sushi Rolls. Not a bad establishment, although it was rather pricey for 8 pieces for Idyllwild. I guess a tourist town, even in the middle of the pandemic! I also picked up some eggs and tofu noodles for tomorrow so that I don't have to waste money on restaurants. I might as well use the kitchen in the rental apartment!

I spent the evening reading listening to the birds outside.