Sunday, October 7, 2018

Italy Trip - Day 5: Florence

After a decent night of sleep, I was finally getting over the jet lag. I would still wake up several times at night, but now I at least was able to go back to sleep. I walked to the hotel where later in the day the cycling tour with Intrepid would start to leave my bag. I stopped at the local market to get coffee, and again my cappuccino was too foamy and mostly milk, something I am not used to. With a croissant to add to this foamy pleasure, I was truly becoming an Italian - several days without an egg breakfast!




And this is what my day was supposed to look like:


Not bad, right?

The first part of the day I was going to spend at the Piazza del Duomo. Initially, it was really hard for me to figure out what's what - all churches looked alike. I visited Baptistry first. It was less crowded, and I already had my ticket with access to 5 different places: Baptistry, Giotto's Bell Tower, Santa Maria del Fiore aka Florence Cathedral (actually free), Crypt of Santa ReparataMuseo dell'Opera del Duomo and Cupola del Brunelleschi (the actual walk up to the dome required timed reservations that I made in advance).

Baptistry was very peaceful and quiet.


It is known for its bronze doors made by Lorenzo Ghiberti because of the detail of each door panels and how long it took him to create them (21 years!). The original door I later found in the Museo dell'Opera del Duomo, but this copy was still protected by the gate from curious tourists.


As I left Baptistry, I saw a forming line by the main church, aka Florence Cathedral aka Santa Maria del Fiore. I was seriously confused whether this was the same as Brunelleschi Dome and later found out that if you just go to the Dome, you won't really need to wait in line for several hours to enter Florence Cathedral. At that point I did not know that and waited in line for over an hour and a half to get in. As my turn in line approaches, one of the workers told me I was not allowed in the Cathedral because I was wearing shorts. I was really upset, and went to the nearby stand to buy a cover up (€4). Luckily, I jumped right in front of the line and entered the Cathedral. "It better be real good," I thought.


It certainly was grand, I give it that. The Bruneschelli Dome was so far up that I could not really imaging this type of building could be created back in the days. I would see it much closer on the actual climb to the dome.


The Crypt of Santa Reparata was just downstairs from the cathedral. It houses the remains of the original cathedral and three rebuilds (wars, destruction, you know...). While there were quite a few neat features of this museum, such as tombs of chaplains and popes, I found a polycrome floor mosaic to be most interesting because of how detailed it was.



Floor mosaic


It was almost time to line up for the Brunelleschi Dome, so I headed back upstairs and exited the cathedral. I could finally take off the stupid cover up that made me look like a poorly dressed nun.

Timed entry at Brunelleschi Dome really means timed entry. Exactly at 11.30 AM the line was let in the cathedral (yep, the same cathedral I just waited to enter for over an hour and a half, but through a different entrance).


As I climbed 463 (but who is counting?) steps, the views were starting to get really nice!

both to the outside...

...and inside of the Cathedral
Finally, I reached the top and the views fully unfolded!


View to Giotto's Bell Tower

With my fear of heights, looking smiley like below took some courage, just like approaching the fence. "Yep, I am alright... It's not that high afterall..." Who was I kidding?



Certainly a worthy experience!

I then went to Giotto's Bell Tower. Having climbed the Dome, I did not feel like doing it all over again just to see the same views, so instead I enjoyed the lower lying floors, well protected from the outside, but with really nice views nevertheless...




Being frugal and wanting to get all out of this "all inclusive" ticket to five Florence sites, I headed to the Museo dell'Opera del Duomo. Outside, the museum did not look like much, and given that I have not even included it in my itinerary, I did not think I would spend there much time. It turned out to be one of my favorite sites that day. Air-conditioned, well-lit in some rooms and dark in others, it represented works of art of so many famous painters and sculptors. Pictures cannot truly describe it, so check out the video below.


Original Lorenzo Ghiberti's doors



After cooling off in the museum, it was time for lunch. The place I was planning to go to was packed, so I decided to head to Piazzale Michelangelo and hopefully on the way there find a restaurant. As I crossed the bridge over Arno river, I finally was able to take a deep breath - there were much fewer tourists. I was really getting tired of crowds.




Usually, I tend to research restaurants before going there, but since I did not have Internet connection (I know, I know, some people might gasp here!), I stopped by Negroni Pizzeria. And guess what? Another good find! I sat outside, even though I knew that people might be smoking, but luckily, there were mostly tourists who respectfully stepped aside (imagine that!) to smoke. I enjoyed a pizza with a glass of house red, used their WiFi and happily was on my was to Piazzale Michelangelo.





On the way to Piazzale Michelangelo, I started my gelato quest. At least a gelato per day. I can't tell you just how good gelato can be. The place I bought it today made gelato from fresh fruits, and I certainly enjoyed a banana flavor with one of my favorites - nocciola (hazelnut). Also, I needed that gelato to hike up the hill, yes, this is my excuse...

On top, the views were amazing, yet again.




I ended up spending there much less time than I anticipated, and was finally able to slow down and fully enjoy the views. Having planned so many things in one day, I realized that rest was not part of the schedule in any of the days, and I now needed that.

I walked back to the hotel to check in and take a shower. On the way back, I saw this cool fortress, but unfortunately it was closed.



Today was the first day of the tour, and in the evening the group was going to meet for an introductory session. I checked in the hotel, a bit anxious about my roommate. The tour I booked with Intrepid was a cycling tour of the Tuscany, and accommodations were booked for two people, so I knew I was going to share a room with someone. I am a solo type of traveler, I prefer seeing things on my own, I like to not share a room, but this time I knew that this could be a good change for me. And really, it was! My roommate ended up to be great. She was a bit older than me, respectful and sociable. We spent a lot of time together, and I am glad I have met her.

Here is our first accommodations - large room with a nice shower!



To my big surprise, the group was primarily older - at least half were over 60 years old, and I was the youngest one. Lo and behold, I would be the slowest one also...

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